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The Norfolk Broads Forum / Broads Boat Owners Q & A / Ignition warning light
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Posted By Discussion Topic: Ignition warning light

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Mowjo
Aug-15-2009 @ 12:12 AM                           Permalink
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Graeme we're out for the week starting Saturday thats why I'm trying to get it sorted before then, the trouble is I'm not sure what bits to remove, I have an Alternator guy about 100 yards from my house so i'll have a word with him, this ones getting on my nerves I don't usualy get lost on elecrics, but there are so many brown cables and I only managed to get a circuit on two of them
Regards Frank,,,

I'm Not CRAZY, my view on reality is just different to YOURS,,,

gallopinhairpin
Aug-18-2009 @ 10:31 PM                           Permalink
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Frank,

I don't know if you've got this sorted yet but if not I hope this might help:-
Sounds like your installation is the same as mine, the old Lucas 11AC with separate voltage regulator and field relay. If so the circuit should be as shown in the attached drawing. When the switch is in the AUX position the field winding receives a supply via the ignition light. This provides enough excitation to start the alternator generating. The AL terminal provides an alternating voltage to the coil of the field relay and when you blip the throttle this should rise enough to pull the relay in. When the relay contacts close the full battery voltage goes to the field winding and the voltage equalises on both sides of the lamp so it goes out. As the alternator output rises the voltage regulator starts to control the field winding to regulate the output.
If the light stays on it suggests the relay isn't pulling in. The current for the lamp is going via the field winding so that circuit must be ok (including the brushes). Check the voltage between W1 and W2 on the field relay (on AC setting). I think it should be about 7.5V. If it's present the relay must be faulty or there's a break in the circuit to W1 or W2.

Regards,

Mike.

This message was edited by gallopinhairpin on Aug-18-09 @ 10:43 PM


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Mowjo
Aug-18-2009 @ 12:09 AM                           Permalink
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Mike thanks for that, but it dosn't look like that there are thick brown cables everywhere, I've just had a thought, first this year, it looks like and Alternator without all the bits on the back, But I'm wondering if it's actualy a dynamo,  because if memory serves me right there are only three connection on it using thick cable, I think there is one Live, one Negative and a smaller wire, I'll post a picture of it tomorrow, I have an Idea now that I've had it all wrong and it is a dynamo,,

Frank,,

I'm Not CRAZY, my view on reality is just different to YOURS,,,

BOATERS
Aug-19-2009 @ 11:51 AM                           Permalink
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Hi Frank,I would try a mains charge of the batteries before changing them  as when I had the charging problem I thought they were duff but charged them and they maintained well over 12 volts.As all you Experts are around could I indulge and as one question ????
We have left the ignition on when stopping the engine a good few times ,so I have purchased a 12 volt Buzzer which I was going  to wire  the live  feed to the ignition light and then earth so that when the light came on on stopping it would sound the buzzer.Does this sound feasible?  

Roy and Diane

Hope to see you on the river,

gallopinhairpin
Aug-19-2009 @ 4:43 PM                           Permalink
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Roy,

If your circuit is similar to the one I posted then in order for it to work I think you would have to connect the buzzer in parallel with the lamp. Bear in mind that this will increase the initial current in the field winding slightly but this might have the benefit of not needing to blip the throttle so hard to get the system charging. At the moment I don't actually know what the rating of the warning lamp is. However I wouldn't have thought the buzzer would take more than a few tens of milliamps, compared with probably a few hundred for the lamp so you should be ok. I'll be at my boat tomorrow so will try to make some measurements then. Could you post the characteristics of your buzzer?

Frank,

If your system is a dynamo it should have a single combined control box comprising a regulator and cut-out. This would have five terminals marked A1, A, F, D and E. The thick wire from the dynamo would be its main output and should go to terminal D, the thinner one would be its field and go to terminal F.
As a rule of thumb a dynamo is long and slim and an alternator is short and fat.  Smile

Another thought: since you say there are three wires, one of which is thin, it could be a later-type alternator with an internal regulator. The thick wires would be the output and ground and the thin one the warning lamp.

Regards,

Mike.

This message was edited by gallopinhairpin on Aug-19-09 @ 5:02 PM

BOATERS
Aug-19-2009 @ 7:17 PM                           Permalink
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Thanks Mike ,does that mean the two tails of the buzzer( red and black ) connect to the two tags on the lamps?The buzzer is a 12volt miniture solid state 35MA - 450 HZ - 8DB .only a small item to just make us aware of the ignition .Look forward to your reply. Question

Roy and Diane

Hope to see you on the river,

gallopinhairpin
Aug-19-2009 @ 8:36 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Roy,

Yes, the buzzer should be connected across the lamp. Referring to my circuit the red tail would go to the side of the lamp connected to the starter switch and the black to the side connected to the alternator and field relay terminal C2. You probably ought to connect a diode in series with the buzzer to protect it from reverse voltage which could occur if the starter switch is turned off whilst the engine is running, unless it is specified to withstand reverse voltage.

The 35mA for the buzzer won't cause any problems.

Regards,

Mike.

Mowjo
Aug-19-2009 @ 11:16 PM                           Permalink
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Roy This is what I mean by Brown Cables everywhere,

I'm Not CRAZY, my view on reality is just different to YOURS,,,


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Mowjo
Aug-19-2009 @ 11:17 PM                           Permalink
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And the Second one, Unfortunatly I forgot to take one of The Alternator,,

I'm Not CRAZY, my view on reality is just different to YOURS,,,


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Omnibusbob
Aug-19-2009 @ 11:55 PM                           Permalink
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Hi
If your batteries are discharging and the light stays on all the time, have you checked for a shortcircuit somewhere. Maybe someone put a screw through wires. Check for warm wiring.

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