The Norfolk BroadsThe Norfolk Broads
Username Password
Norfolk Broads Weather

Mon, 11 Apr 2016 7:20 am BST- Light Rain
5 Day Forecast

Wind 2.0 mph @ 40°
48.0°F/8.89°C Humidity 93% Pressure 29.65 (S)

Welcome to The Norfolk Broads Forum
This is THE Worlds Largest Forum devoted to the Norfolk Broads, here you can discuss issues about the Norfolk Broads. Or just somewhere to chat with others interested in the Norfolk Broads area. In 2015 forum members spent 2,048 days afloat on the Broads

Please Help Support The Norfolk Broads Forum
OR

The Norfolk Broads Forum / Broads Boat Owners Q & A / Avoiding condensation
login
join
Graphics Off
Search
Forum Members - Book your Hoseasons holiday today, Just call 0345 498 6296

This is a moderated forum Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Avoiding condensation

Similar Threads That Might Help :
places to avoid in August| places to avoid in August| How to avoid mooring fees| How to avoid being eaten !!!| events to avoid| events to avoid|

-- Page: 1 2

book mark this topic Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

Regulo
Nov-17-2017 @ 5:26 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Mardles sometimes
Posts: 2581
Joined: Jun 2008
Regulo
          

Add To Ignore List
The clicks were probably from the heating's fuel pump. It's a small tubular thingy that works like the old electric fuel pumps on cars. As to why your heating won't start - many reasons. Is fuel being delivered, is the battery voltage high enough, has the heater "locked out" after too many failed start attempts? Need more info as to what unit you have on board.

Regards, Ray.

Whatever happens now, I'm blaming it on Brexit. Everyone else is!

FireDave
Nov-17-2017 @ 5:32 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Fens Fatale
Posts: 38
Joined: Mar 2017
          

Add To Ignore List
The heating does start and come on. It's just previous to yesterday, the clicks haven't been there when the heating was on. So as a precautionary measure, I switched it off for fear of any damage it could be doing?
My process for I use fot the heating is to run my engine for 5 mins, switch on the inverter and then put the heating switch to the 'on' position. The clicks then start as soon as the heater starts to blow from the vents (usually up to 10 seconds after I've switched it on)...

Regulo
Nov-17-2017 @ 7:05 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Mardles sometimes
Posts: 2581
Joined: Jun 2008
Regulo
          

Add To Ignore List
Sorry, I misunderstood the question. I thought the heating wouldn't start! Once running, the clicks usually mean the little fuel pump is working OK. Are you sure you haven't heard it before? Not removed any panels that would make it more noticeable? If your heating is running OK, I doubt there's much to damage. The heaters have all sorts of safeguards embedded in them, and will shut themselves down if there's any major problem.

Regards, Ray.

Whatever happens now, I'm blaming it on Brexit. Everyone else is!

annville
Nov-18-2017 @ 12:12 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Forum Regular
Posts: 801
Joined: Oct 2013
          

Add To Ignore List
Hi Dave The clicking noise you can hear is the fuel pump, on starting it clicks/pumps to prime the combustion chamber once the heater starts ie hot air coming from the ducts the pump only clicks/pumps at a slow steady rate.if you bypass the pump and remove the fuel pipe/to test/bleed it, it will only click/pump once, then only every time you energize it with battery power. unlike a normal electric pump that pumps continuously while it is powered.They are normally mounted on rubber to muffle the noise/clicking.John

FireDave
Nov-18-2017 @ 5:21 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Fens Fatale
Posts: 38
Joined: Mar 2017
          

Add To Ignore List
Yeah, I gather it's the fuel pump. I still think it's louder than before though as you can hear it outside the boat as if someone is knocking on the hull and inside you can hear it when the tv is on... I've attached a pic...
Thanks for your help with this guys btw ??


Attached File
View Full Size Image

annville
Nov-18-2017 @ 6:09 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Forum Regular
Posts: 801
Joined: Oct 2013
          

Add To Ignore List
Yes that the fuel pump, perhaps the pipe is touching the mounting board which will amplify the sound/ noise,providing the heater is working ok it's more of a irritation then any thing wrong.the diesel may be thicker now it's colder making pump work harder,when you last heard it the engine room would have been hotter if you had been sailing.try touching the pipe,pump body or the mounting board and see/hear if this changes any thing.John

FireDave
Nov-19-2017 @ 2:25 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Fens Fatale
Posts: 38
Joined: Mar 2017
          

Add To Ignore List
Thanks John. Touching it didn't make any difference so I just ignore it now ha! I've got a marine engineer coming over tomorrow to give advice and look at some of the other improvements I'm installing so I'll double check then.

An interesting development has came up on the double glazing front. A friend who is a manager of a double glazing firm has quoted me a reasonable price for the windows- which led me to think;
What are the differences in installing normal double glazing, as opposed to that for your boat? What sealant etc would I need and has anyone got any advice in this area? Or indeed done it?

Could be a way to save some cash for other areas ...

annville
Nov-19-2017 @ 4:13 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Forum Regular
Posts: 801
Joined: Oct 2013
          

Add To Ignore List
Hi Dave When i had my last boat built 2011 i specified Seaglaze windows, from Rackheath,they were unable to provide double glazed as i wanted clamp in frames,i could have gone to other manufacturers but none of there clamp in frames were any way as good as Seaglaze. they also use coloured frames that are baked rather then anodized if you wish,i then used velcro to make my own double glazing which stops the frames from condensing, they use recommend a frame mastic which comes in rolls with tape backing this doesn't harden so can move without breaking the seal and possible leaking it also makes it easy to remove frames at a later date if needed.and is very easy to use unlike silastic in a tube.I had double glazed units in a Princess on a prevase boat that i had for some years some of the units whent milky after a number of years at the edges this was caused by the frames flexing with boat movement and breaking the bond between the glass panels.boat manufacturers now use one piece glass units that are bonded to the boat sides this stops this happening. Household windows have frames that are screwed/glued into recesses in the wall,and houses dont flex of course.If frames are screwed from outside not only are they unattractive ie the screws holes but can be unscrewed from outside by tow rags,clamp in and bonded can't be removed as easily from outside or be it more expensive.Ref your pump you could try bleeding it just remove the hose connection on the heater then pull of the terminal on pump then run a wire from battery live and flash it on the pump terminal to activate the pump action until pure fuel runs from hose then push hose back on and reconnect and try,make sure the copper pipes aren't touching any thing.oh your tank isnt nearly empty is it? you can get a hammer action that echos in empty tanks.John

Stick
Nov-19-2017 @ 4:49 PM                           Permalink
reply
edit
profile
send p.m.
Fens Fatale
Posts: 37
Joined: Aug 2017
Stick
          

Add To Ignore List
Re glassing in battens, relatively simple but you must make sure the hull is clean and if too dirty or has been painted, mine had, then you will need to grind off the paint back to clean glassfibre! I used an angle grinder with a flap disc on it. Obviously you need to be careful not to go to far and wearing head covering with goggles and a decent breathing mask is a must! I used a 3M mask with filter cannisters for spray painting! I stuck the battening in with car type David's chopped glass mat and polyester resin which sticks really well to the original epoxy resin.  The only reason I put in battening was so I could use as much insulation thickness as I could get in! I bought my boat with the sole purpose of living aboard in all weathers as I intended cruising round the British Isles. Having spent winters in her at -15 that we had a few years ago( the rivers acutualy froze over) I can confirm that she stays warm with a minimum amount of heating. Even with the fire not lit and only the engine being used she generally manages to remain 5 degrees higher inside than outside temperature. My father has a webasto heater in his boat and his main cause of failure was soot build up in combustion chamber and dirty fuel clogging the fuel pump.... I fitted an inline filter before the pump ( small cartridge type) which fixed the problem. If you continue to have problems Maffet cruisers at Loddon are very good. They refurbished my Dads at a very reasonable price but as it is the smallest heater available and not designed for 24/7 running it soon cloggs  up with soot due to contaminated fuel and the drip pad keeps needing replacement!

Ex-military! Not a civilian!

PAGE: 1 2

Home Photo Gallery Days Afloat Contact Us
Chat Room Downloads Norfolk Broads @ Amazon Make My Logo
Shops & Businesses Members Gear Norfolk Broads @ EBay Holiday Calendar
Pub Guide Tide Tables SOS List Popular Threads
2017 Calendar Contest Make A Donation Links Hireboat Info
Norfolk Broads @ CafePress FAQ Broads Quiz Forum Events
Advertise With Us Forum Shop Boating Bits Stickys and FAQs Boating Bits Hirecraft List

 

 

 



Copyright © 2005 Y2KInternet, All Rights Reserved.