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Posted By Discussion Topic: EBERSPACHER

Similar Threads That Might Help :
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Ellaboat
Nov-25-2006 @ 9:36 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Paul,

Your heater is an older version of the "D3LC Universal 12 volt"

The full model number is 25 1822 05 00 00

For reference, the number that you quoted is for the plastic outer shell, bottom section
(In full = 25 1822 01 01 00)

You can download a technical manual for a D3LCc here:-

http://www.espar.com/pdfs/D3LCc.pdf

The document above relates to a later version, but just check that your wiring loom and wire destinations are the same as shown.
Then the following info will be correct.

Re using relay contacts to carry the current for the glow plug and fuel pump:-
This is only required on early models that routed power for these devices through the "heater switch on" line (yellow wire from the 7 day timer, pin 2).
To check your heater's requirements, connect and hold a 20 amp ammeter between heater pin 5 (battery +ve) and heater pin 14.
This will run up the heater.
As long as it is not calling for short bursts of high (say 10 amps plus) current in the first 30 seconds of run up then you don't need a relay contact feeding power to heater pin 14.

When you don't need a relay:-
7 day timer pin 2 and heater pin 14 are simply connected together.

When you do need a relay:-
7 day timer pin 2 is used to feed "switched +ve" to the relay coil (with other side of coil tied to -ve), and start up /run power to the heater, pin 14 is routed through the relay contact (with start up / run power taken from batt +ve at heater pin 5).

I have the heater RESET info that you have asked for (PM me with email address and I'll send it as a .pdf file).

All the best,

E/boat Steve

p.s. edited part number (removed small c - list shows this model as the non compact version)

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Nov-25-06 @ 10:29 PM

Ellaboat
Nov-25-2006 @ 10:18 PM                           Permalink
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Paul,
Part number for overheat sensor (if you need it) is:-

25 1729 40 00 00

E/boat Steve

lamplighter
Nov-25-2006 @ 11:08 PM                           Permalink
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Again Many thanks Steve

I have seen these on the RS site rated at various temperatures for a couple of pounds. RS Stock no. 494-0873(Honeywell 2455RC-90820389)

Thursbys seem to want £51.00 for it unless I am losing the plot

Cheers

Paul

Ellaboat
Nov-26-2006 @ 12:11 PM                           Permalink
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Paul,

You're not losing the plot.
Eberspacher would charge you (for instance) approx. £120 for the stainless steel air-cooled exhaust fitting.
A bit of searching will turn up the same genuine part for less than half that.
If their spares prices to the public were more reasonable, people  wouldn't start looking elsewhere.

The temperature shut down sensor is obviously a critical item for safety and this is where knowledge is power. (Power to your wallet that is).




E/boat Steve

Ellaboat
Nov-26-2006 @ 12:45 PM                           Permalink
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And here's another famous quotation:-
Necessity is the mother of all invention

Never was there a more apt saying than when I dropped my new stainless steel exhaust hull fitting in the drink, under 5 feet of water and buried 1 foot down in the mud. (Something to do with a wire fruit bowl, an oar, a boat hook and the humble, ever versatile, cable tie).

The hull fitting escaped with a few superficial scratches as a reminder of that event.

E/boat Steve

lamplighter
Nov-26-2006 @ 1:04 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Steve
Just to let you know I have connected the timer, and reset the unit as per your advice.

Everything seems to be working Apart from the overheat problem hopefully I can pick up a sensor tomorrow, if it is to dear from my local dealer I will get one from RS although the sensor on mine is rated at 170 c and RS do 160 c and 180 c

If I could just ask one more question of you, my wiring diagram as you know does not match my setup, being an older model, I have traced the wiring back as best I can, as you suggested but the color codes seem to be differant, can you advise on the Temperature setting wires, pins 6 and 9. I have used the "T" wire from the old thermostat and connected it to pin 9 but am not sure if thats right or where to connect pin 6

Again many many thanks for your help, I could not have got this far without you.

Best Regards

Paul

lamplighter
Nov-26-2006 @ 2:29 PM                           Permalink
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I thought someone asked a quetion about red diesal and Eberspachers
I found this on the Espar site which might help

"Will my Eberspacher heater run on red diesel and how often will it need servicing?"

Answer:
"Our heater products are designed to run on fuel to specification BS EN 590 as stated in the Technical book that accompanies all heaters."

It is commonly thought that red diesel is road diesel with a red dye in it….. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. There are two types of red diesel available, one is Gas Oil with red dye, and the other is Low Sulphur Gas Oil (City Gas Oil) with a red dye. The latter meets BS EN 590 and has the same specification as road diesel.

We have contacted a couple of Fuel Suppliers to ascertain "what exactly is it in the fuel that makes it different”.

The main differences between "Gas Oil (non BS EN 590)" and Low Sulphur Gas Oil (to BS EN 590), is the former has a lower 'Cetane rating' 46 against 52, higher sulphur %Wt 0.2 against 0.005, higher Flash point 82 against 67 and Carbon residue, on 10% distillation residue, %Wt .12 against <0.001.

The fuel commonly found on the canal system is unfortunately "Gas Oil". The other "Red diesel" available is called "City Gas Oil" (ultra low sulphur gas oil) (Linton Fuel Oil Ltd Stock code 103). This meets BS EN 590 and apparently costs the marina only 1.5 pence more per litre. Our contact was quoted saying "why anyone chooses to buy normal gas oil, I don’t know!" another supplier was challenged to why it was not always offered he said "surprisingly no one asks for it but it is readily available."

We have found boat owners using the better quality fuel to have a longer period between servicing, therefore what is needed are people like you demanding this far superior fuel. I am sure you would be happy to pay a few pence more for better fuel.

In answer to your servicing questions our heaters have a service interval of approximately 2000 hrs, this can be adversely affected by the use of Gas Oil (non BS EN 590), bacterial or water contamination. We have many customers who have taken onboard the advice we have given in the past regarding additives and now have far longer service intervals. These additives are ‘Fuel Set’ & ‘Fultron’ and are available from all good chandlers and stockists.

Cheers  Paul

Ellaboat
Nov-26-2006 @ 5:13 PM                           Permalink
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Paul,
Just seen your query.
This may be a bit long winded but it will answer your question:-

From your question, it looks like your old controller had an internal thermostat.
If so, you may have to use part of the old controller (i.e. just the 2 temperature SENSOR connections) together with the new 7 day timer.
I have attached a picture of our 7 day timer, just to be sure that we are talking about the same (new) item.

Note that there are 2 connections for the TARGET TEMPERATURE selector (which is a simple variable resistor, not a temperature sensor) AND a further terminal for a true temperature measuring sensor (the common return being shared).

Every Eberspacher has an internal temperature sensor inside the heater (which measures the temp. of the incoming "fresh" air). In the case of a lorry cab installation, no other cabin air temp. sensor is required as the air is just recycled through the heater, so it knows when the target temperature has been reached.
When the fresh air intake is from the outside, a second temperature sensor is required in the cabin. Otherwise it would never reduce it's heat output (unless it was hot outside).

The simple rotary rheostat control supplied with many Ebby's does not have this internal sensor, nor does the 7 day timer, which is meant for a lorry cab.
You can buy cabin temp. sensors for fitting on the bulkhead (as I did) or re-use part of your old "thermostatic control" which seemingly did have one inside.
Note that when the Ebby is run up with a remote cabin temp. sensor fitted, it ignores it's internal sensor. (This was in fact explained earlier in the thread).

On our installation:-
Timer pin 6 goes to heater pin 7
Timer pin 9 goes to heater pin 13
Remote temperature sensor "live" connection goes to heater pin 8
Remote temperature sensor "return" connection shares heater pin 13

"T" usually refers to a remote temperature SENSOR "live" connection

See PM for a rough hand drawing of our full installation wiring.
I'll check this against any info that I have for a D3LC and let you know of any differences that I find.


E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Nov-26-06 @ 4:20 PM


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Ellaboat
Nov-26-2006 @ 5:18 PM                           Permalink
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Useful info on the fuel, Paul.

In view of that info, can anyone tell us exactly what the red stuff is that we we are putting in our tanks on the broads?

E/boat Steve

Antares_9
Nov-26-2006 @ 7:28 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Steve, I believe most if not all fuel on the Broads is to or above EN590, our marina certainly is. Modern diesel engines would be most unhapy running on "Gas Oil", I wonder if you can still get TVO Smile

David

update on cat logic: "Dubito ergo cogito; cogito ergo sum" Rene Des Cat

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