Welcome to The Norfolk Broads Forum
This is THE Worlds Largest Forum devoted to the Norfolk Broads, here you can discuss issues about the Norfolk Broads. Or just somewhere to chat with others interested in the Norfolk Broads area.
Please press on. Our Eberspacher heats a water jacket that then pumps round four radiators and the calorifier. But I am interested to learn from your experience. We had a Webasto hot air system on our last boat and could not get on with it. So far we love the Eberspacher - apart from when the glow plug failed last Boxing Day (2004). Luckily we have 240v power and could head for a shorepower pylon and get the blow fire going. Now I always keep a spare on the boat. Haven't had it long so I don't have a feel for the likely life of a glow plug.
Thanks for info Richard. It'll teach me to finish it in one go and not keep walking away (or alternatively use notepad as you suggest)...
Here goes with retype
There are 2 inlets to provide for:- 1) Combustion air 2) Fresh air for heating and distribution to cabins
For the combustion air I bought an Eberspacher silenced air intake pipe. (John at Eber-Basto advised me that this makes the heater quieter in operation). The heater takes combustion air from the engine compartment (as does the main engine). This is the black pipe to the left of the copper fuel inlet pipe.
For fresh air I fitted an intake on the cockpit starboard panelling. The 60mm air ducting runs down between the panelling and the outer hull then across the rear of the engine compartment (entering the heater on the left of the picture). As we have a canvas canopy, this is only one step away from taking air from outside the boat. Siting of this intake is crucial for a safe installation - any noxious fumes entering here will be distributed around the entire boat. We have a centre cockpit and rarely smell any fumes but if you have an aft cockpit and transom exhaust, NEVER site your intake low down in the aft well. Given the effects of the low pressure area created behind a moving boat, it hardly seems necessary to make this point but even experienced Ebby dealers have been caught out by this (there's an MAIB case file on this very subject).
For the exhaust outlet on a fibreglass hull you will need an air-cooled (double skinned) hull fitting. Eberspacher would charge you £120+ for this, but you can usually buy one on Ebay for about £48 (they are on special at the moment for £36). Watch out for cheap Chinese imitations. The genuine fittings (I believe) all have 4 fixing holes. They also angle the exhaust down steeply to help avoid ingress of water. The heater should be fitted above the level of the hull exhaust outlet, but if you cannot achieve that (which I couldn't), then fit the hull outlet no higher than the level of the exhaust outlet on the bottom of the heater. The two are connected by 24mm (inside diameter)stainless exhaust tubing - use the genuine Eberspacher tube.
Continued in next post..
This message was edited by Ellaboat on Jan-23-06 @ 9:26 AM
Remember to also fit an insulating sock on exhaust tubing to avoid potential nasty burns and fall foul of BSS. (Exhaust with sock is white pipe in picture).
Fuel tubing must be copper pipe for BSS compliance.
Fuel pump needs to be angled up at least 15 degrees for correct operation (see picture). Ideally, the fuel line should progressively climb from the tank to the heater with no dips.
Also I will need to replace those un-insulated crimp terminals - they are another potential BSS failure.
This fitting will continue to evolve. I still have not properly supported the cabin air ducting and rogue untidy wires that you may notice in the pictures offend my eyes every time I lift the floor panels.
1st of 6 pictures attached
This message was edited by Ellaboat on Jan-23-06 @ 9:21 AM