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Posted By Discussion Topic: EBERSPACHER

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Ellaboat
Feb-03-2006 @ 8:07 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Parahandy,

Welcome to the forum.

You're boat should be named "Vital Spark" and steam powered...
Can't remember when that programme was aired, but it was all filmed in Scotland (Caledonian Canal/Crinan Canal? / Oban?) and the skippers name was parahandy.

I last spotted the old steam "puffer," Vital Spark at the end of Crinan Canal.



E/boat Steve

parahandy
Feb-03-2006 @ 9:20 PM                           Permalink
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i used to watch the vital spark with my mum many eons ago brilliant prog and yes i agree the boat should have been named vital spark but you try telling the wife & kids that. verily i ended up with tinkerbelle  Blush
never mind the old girl(the boat not missus)is a dc30
which i have been bringing up to date for 2years & she has just passed the bsc.
if anyone needs the name of a bloke to do their bsc give me a shout he only charges £60 & no retest which makes a big difference
jim

back to work already your'e joking

seventh-heaven
Feb-06-2006 @ 6:04 PM                           Permalink
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Steve,

Early on in the thread you talk about the D1LC and an F60 fault. Does this imply that you have a fault code reader and reset box?

I have fitted a D1LC to my Easticks 28 "Annie". The first few times I ran the heater it started fine but shut down after a couple of minutes. Now it won't start and I suspect that I was a bit optomistic with the severity of the  curve on the output hose, and as a result it has locked itself out on "overtemp". However everything I have read so far says that I need a reset box to reset that fault.

Do you have access to one of the reset boxes?

Regards

Andy.

This message was edited by seventh-heaven on Feb-6-06 @ 10:18 PM

Ellaboat
Feb-08-2006 @ 10:00 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Andy,

Just got back from Falmouth - needed to earn some money!
I will send you a PM with more details but your main question was answered on page 2 in my post dated Jan 18th.
Wife currently whistling as tea is ready - expect a PM later tonight.

E/boat Steve

Ellaboat
Feb-19-2006 @ 12:07 PM                           Permalink
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I thought that I might as well put this out there for everyone to see.

THIS IS THE WIRING WHEN REPLACING THE STANDARD RHEOSTAT CONTROL WITH A 7 DAY TIMER on a D1LC Compact.
  
The 7 day timer (for AIR heaters ##) - has 12 pins as follows:-

1  =  Illumination
(not necessary - display backlighting is on during operation)

2  =  Switch On signal to heater
(goes direct to pin 14 on heater control module on our version of D1LC compact)- see #

3  =  Connection for OUTSIDE temperature sensor
(NOT for a remote internal sensor)

4  =  TRS (link this to -ve at pin 12)
TRS only used on petrol tankers etc. - link disables this feature.

5  =  2nd connection for OUTSIDE temperature sensor

6  =  Temperature target value
(same as pin 2 on rheostat control - goes to heater control module pin 7)

7  =  Remote on/off
(not normally used - momentary contact to -ve will switch heater on / off)

8  =  Diagnostics
(receives fault codes from heater control module pin 4)

9  =  Sensor ref
(same as pin 1 on rheostat control - goes to heater control module pin 13)

10 = Ignition (link this to pin 11)
(note that if link to +ve at pin 11 is not fitted, heater will run for 2 hrs only and shut down)

11 = 12 volts +ve supply

12 = 12 volts -ve supply


If you have a troubleshooting guide - note that the reference to ignition "terminal 15" on page 6 (switched +ve)relates to contacts on a vehicle ignition switch.

# Some heaters require a relay in circuit to carry high current for glow plug etc. - see earlier in thread.

## Above refers to 7 day timers with part nos:-

English - 22 1000 30 40 00
German  - 22 1000 30 38 00



E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Feb-19-06 @ 11:20 AM

expilot
Feb-19-2006 @ 12:48 AM                           Permalink
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My first boat, "Grey Goose" was originally fitted with gas heaters.  They produced gallons of condensation and were quickly replaced by a 3.5kw Webasto.  Like many of the posters hetre I was worried about battery consumption.  The problem was solved by installing a magic black box for controlling the alternator's charging ability.  I think it was called a TWC.  I already had two heavy duty domestic batteries.  These I kept but added a smaller (and much cheaper) car battery used solely foe engine starting.  The TWC fed the charge to this battery first before topping up the heavy duty batteries.  Interestingly the TWC was also a very efficient diagnostic tool.  The readings suggested a complete upgrading of the wiring - which I did.  The heater was couple to a programmable controller which meant that I could leave the heater on a frostat setting permanently when the boat was unused.  I could also leave the boat in the morning and set the heating to come on a half hour befdore my return.  The biggest benefit from my point of view was that I could also adjust the hysteresis.  I had mine set so that the difference between the heating being on or off was just 0.5 degrees Celsius.  I could leave salt and sugar out in the boat and they were never once damp.

"There are old pilots.  There are bold pilots............."

Ellaboat
Feb-21-2006 @ 2:02 PM                           Permalink
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Points worth noting (most of which are obvious when you give it any thought):-

1) Volume of air leaving each cabin outlet reduces according to how many outlets are open. It would be impractical to fit any more than 3 outlets and expect to have them all open at the same time.
In fact, 3 is pushing the limits with a D1LC Compact.

2) Air ducting should be kept as short as possible, and adding insulation sleeving to avoid heat loss is worth considering. Our heater coped well when we were on the boat and using the engine every day (much of our ducting and the heater itself are in the engine compartment and therefore warmed by the engine), but when I visited yesterday and ran up the Ebby on a totally cold boat it took a full hour to lift the main saloon temperature 4 degrees C.
This was deliberately with 2 outlets open (1 only in the main saloon) to see how the heater coped when heating more than one cabin in "dead ship" conditions.
  
3) As I mentioned before, if you like to be warm as toast under all conditions, then you would be better off fitting a higher output heater on a boat longer than say 25 ft.

The above test was the harshest yet of this heaters abilities. We will only see conditions like this in the marina, where I can simply switch on a 240 volt mains fan heater instead.


E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Feb-21-06 @ 7:22 PM

Ellaboat
Feb-21-2006 @ 8:47 PM                           Permalink
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Unless I have misunderstood the reference to the hysteresis setting, I would guess that the Webasto that expilot is talking about was one of the older models.
The newer Eberspachers, which includes the D1LC Compact (and I guess also the newer Webasto's) do not switch on and off to maintain a temperature as I believe they used to. Instead, they automatically vary the heat output and blower speed - the only time that they would actually switch off is when they are on the lowest heat output and the temperature is still continuing to rise.
This new approach avoids the repeated high current consumption during restart (to power the start up glow plug).

E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Feb-21-06 @ 7:54 PM

Ellaboat
Apr-02-2006 @ 11:03 AM                           Permalink
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Have found a picture of the cabin temperature sensor referred to earlier in thread...

E/boat Steve


Attached File
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Ellaboat
Apr-02-2006 @ 11:13 AM                           Permalink
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also pic of the 7 day timer in situ (sorry about awful focus)

E/boat Steve


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