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Posted By Discussion Topic: EBERSPACHER

Similar Threads That Might Help :
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Antares_9
Jan-19-2007 @ 11:42 PM                           Permalink
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Got one Huggy, just add a PAYG mobile phone and you arrive to a nice warm boat, you can connect it via a solenoid to switch amost anything on for a pre timed period.

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huggy
Jan-20-2007 @ 12:14 AM                           Permalink
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thanks antares...think you may have missed that item description on e-bay....have a close digest..
your brief reply is 100 times more explanatory than their 10 paragraphs!!

incidentally i must say that when it comes to webasto servicing, advice and spare parts, jpc marine in wroxham have helped me keep my old hl32d running sweet.

they are at:

http://www.jpcdirect.co.uk/w_marineair.htm

the best advice they have given is to ignore the thermostat and run it flat out and open the windows when it gets too hot!!  this works rather well i must say and minimises servicing & coking up..no idea what it costs in diesel though
..dont know about modern burners or eber's though.

regards

....huggy

Ellaboat
Jan-28-2007 @ 11:06 AM                           Permalink
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This whole remote control thing is interesting.

Eberspacher's answer to remote control via cellphone is the "Calltronic" (alias arm and a leg tronic).
A pin number must be entered before it will carry out any instructions, and it responds with voice messages.
I haven't seen one of these, but it appears that all you can do is switch the heater on and off for different periods of time and determine whether it is running or not.
Very handy, but I would want much more for the money, including reporting of heater fault codes and current temperature as monitored in the cabin.

This looks like an interesting project with far greater potential than just controlling an on-board heater.
I've seen suitable GSM modules that accept "pay-as-you-go" SIM cards but they are about 220 Euros each.

Would like to find something cheaper as this is only the first building block.
Any ideas?


E/boat Steve

Ellaboat
Feb-14-2007 @ 11:18 AM                           Permalink
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Re-posting of wiring diagram (see attachment).

I've been answering some questions and then realised that the wiring diagram had mysteriously disappeared from page 10.

E/boat Steve


text_EBBY.pdf
text_EBBY.pdf

Jeremy
Feb-21-2007 @ 7:28 PM                           Permalink
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Hi all,

So my restoration project is coming along ok, hull and upper works are pretty much finished and am moving to inside work.

I am looking to get warm air heating, the Eberspacher D2 seems to be the best option for my boat.
Looking on ebay i see Halls auto sell 2 type of new D2 one for trucks and one for boats. No surprises that the one for boats is about £500 more expensive!

Anyone know what the difference actually is? I'm used to marine stuff being more pricey but that seems excessive. Also anyone used Halls before and can recommend them?

Cheers


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Antares_9
Feb-21-2007 @ 8:03 PM                           Permalink
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Boat kit contains quite a bit of extra trunking and outlets, also a SS skin fitting for the exhaust and different fuel tubing. The actual furnace and control systems are identical. All in all nowhere near £500 worth of extra parts as they can all be sourced for about £120

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Ellaboat
Feb-21-2007 @ 8:54 PM                           Permalink
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Hi all,

This relates to the older D1LC compact but will most likely also apply to the D2:-

There's another subtle difference between truck and boat heaters that often gets overlooked. It doesn't stop the heater from working but it reduces the amount of control that you have over the heat output.

One connecting pin is missing on the control module inside the heater on a truck model. It's not needed on a truck installation where the fresh (heated) air is simply recycled through the heater, but on a boat it allows you to take in fresh air from outside, fit a cabin thermostat and have the heater automatically reduce it's output when the target temp. in the cabin is reached.
The only way that the standard truck setup would do this is if the heater air intake was taken from the same cabin (Discussed earlier in thread).
Thankfully, there is a local source of these pins, so if you consider this a problem it can easily be overcome.


E/boat Steve

This message was edited by Ellaboat on Feb-21-07 @ 7:56 PM

BrianPuskas
Mar-27-2007 @ 4:30 PM                           Permalink
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I have a D1LC that I just bought from the UK.  I altered it as per instructions from the net to do away with the timer and keep the rotary thermostat.  The thing ran perfect on the bench so I installed it in the vehicle I bought it for.  It ran perfect and number of times while just sitting there in the drive so I took the car out for a spin.  Ran perfect for the 20-30 minutes but then I needed fuel so I turned it off via the rotary switch a few minutes before pulling into the gas station.  The heater has not worked since..

There's power as evidenced by the green LED on the rotary switch, the glow plug heats up and looks new (no grunge), the fuel pump/regulator pushed fuel through the line when the leads are pulsed on neg/pos battery terminals....can anyone give me some suggestions?  These are not popular here and I have no access to diagnostic equipment for these units.  

Thanks!

Antares_9
Mar-28-2007 @ 3:25 PM                           Permalink
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Do you recall if it powered down correctly, i.e. continued to run for about 90 seconds after you turned it off, also have you connected it directly to a permenant live circuit so that power to it can not be interrupted whilst it is still either running or in power down "purge" mode. Not sure of the model year but it may now be "locked out" and require an agent reset if it is an earlier one.

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BrianPuskas
Mar-28-2007 @ 3:46 PM                           Permalink
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The car is pretty loud...not sure if it powered down correctly.  I remember thinking that I may have to wait a bit at the pumps and was a bit surprised that is was off already.  It is wired directly to the battery so remains on after the ignition is turned off.

One thing I believe I did incorrectly was to have the heater air intake (not combustion) just scavenge from the trunk for the trial.  But the trunk is pretty air tight...looking at it last night I doubt there would have been enough air infiltration to provide adequate air flow through the heater.  My intention was/is to run a duct into the interior of the car but in my haste to get it working and try it out I left that for the initial run.  Worked fine in the garage...but of course the trunk was open.

Brian

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