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The Norfolk Broads Forum / Broads Boat Owners Q & A / Hampton Safari Wiring Diagram
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Posted By Discussion Topic: Hampton Safari Wiring Diagram

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brijan
Sep-26-2011 @ 1:35 PM                           Permalink
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Knows that Roys is in Hoveton
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HELP Please ....Has anybody a copy of the Hampton Safari
wiring diagram they could copy for us .
Many thanks
Brian and Jan
Hampton Safari Boat Club

http://hamptonsafaribc.webplus.net/



Strowager
Sep-26-2011 @ 1:56 PM                           Permalink
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Mardles sometimes
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I'm afraid Safaris were fitted out by several yards from the bare GRP mouldings.

As with most non production line boats, there was no hard and fast wiring diagram, each boatyard wired them up as they saw fit, and with varying levels of sophistication.

This message was edited by Strowager on Sep-26-11 @ 2:03 PM

brijan
Sep-26-2011 @ 3:02 PM                           Permalink
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Thanks Strowager
We thought that was probably the case.
Hopefully..Maybe somebody out there has a diagram of
their particular wiring which could be used as a guide.
Brian and Jan
Hampton Safari Boat Club  

george
Sep-26-2011 @ 6:58 PM                           Permalink
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hi, did all the wiring on my boats myself according to my needs. if in doubt take it all out an run it new.
look up my "bible" being tb-training, it is all explained very well there. tb-training.co.uk i think is the link.
basically run wire to each user - point seperately and fuse the leads (and some say the return lead too). anyway tb training it the stuff.
there is always the option of getting a professional to do it, but i find you have to be lucky to get a good one.
good luck.

george

Tim
Sep-26-2011 @ 8:50 PM                           Permalink
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Hi Brian and Jan
Can you narrow it down to the engine or the boat sytem (domestics)and if the engine which one as there will be other forumites with the same engine.

Many Thanks Tim

brijan
Sep-26-2011 @ 10:38 PM                           Permalink
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The engine is a BMC 1.5... ...I want to replace the
entire dashboard and instruments and rewire back to the
batteries because at present there are several  
corroded connections ..I have now collected new
replacements..for the two voltmeters and the tacho and
new indicator lamps and holders for the ignition and
oil warning lamp  .
I also have a new ignition switch and other new
switches for the water pump ...wipers and bilge pump  
etc ...but under the old panel it is "birds nest"..I
believe that it uses the old original split charge
relay charger system charging both batteries ...one for
domestic ..one for engine.. I intend to attempt to copy
down each connection as I remove it ...but to have  a
circuit diagram before I start ...would seem to be a
good back up

This message was edited by brijan on Oct-4-11 @ 3:27 PM

Grendel
Sep-26-2011 @ 11:15 PM                           Permalink
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this is where when replacing said wiring, running it along in neat bundles all cable tied in place comes into its own, the neater you can make it, the easier to work on next time, especially if you are doing it again next time. at work we have terminal blocks that we run wiring to, then a multicore cable between locations, but then we are just supplying electricity to everyone.
Grendel

donnyvron
Sep-27-2011 @ 6:32 AM                           Permalink
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Following the above advice, read TB training website and keeping everything neat.

Make your own wireing diagram as you work through the replacement.

Use a colour code for each circuit.  Personaly I got a pack of coloured heatshrinks and cut them to make small bands. For example, switch to starter motor may be green blue green.  I used an odd number so that it reads the same left to right or right to left, no confusion.

Graeme

All right so what is the technical name, sharp end or pointy end?

Strowager
Sep-27-2011 @ 9:03 AM                           Permalink
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It's worth mentioning as well, if anyone is contemplating any 240v wiring in their boat, (for shorepower or inverter), then conventional "twin and earth" cable is outlawed.

Having solid cores, it is deemed to be susceptible to fracture from vibration in a boat (or caravan).

Therefore three core 15 amp mains flex has to be used instead. (The same cable as used for the shorepower lead itself).

brijan
Oct-04-2011 @ 3:25 PM                           Permalink
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Thanks for the advice …I have made a start on trying to copy the wiring and draw my own circuit diagram..I would be obliged if somebody would kindly check it out to see if it  looks OK so far …I have started on the charging circuit as that is where I have had most of my problems …
I had  a replacement alternator fitted and also a new split charge relay… ..Despite this I still had  problems with  intermittent charging ….some days fine and other days despite the charging lamp going out ….the batteries received no charge and the tacho  also didn’t  function.. I bought new batteries and all looked good ..have just returned from a trip out …ran for about 6 hours one day …4 hours the next …no problems … then did a long run of about 9 hours  and still all looked good …max charge on both batteries …charging light out…tacho working …All fine ….UNTIL  when I stopped  the engine and then turned off the ign switch… the charge light remained on…..The only ways to make it go off were ..either to disconnect the alternator connection to charge lamp  ..or turn off the batteries ..or ..Turn ON  the ign switch..?? …..or …Restart the engine…
Any ideas gratefully received  … I would like to try and solve this mystery before
commencing the rewire
Thanks



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